Travelling & sightseeing: Guédelon

Guédelon, by Anne Chadwick Wendrich
Photos by Paul Appleyard

 

The first thing that came to mind reading the call for contributions was the visit that fulfilled one of my dearest wishes. When my husband and I were on holiday last year in Montbard (I can recommend the rustic apartment we were staying in, too!), we were looking for things to do, and I noticed that the castle at Guédelon was only a couple of hours’ drive away. I insisted we go, as I’ve wanted to visit it for years, and it didn’t disappoint.

It’s a new mediaeval castle, being built using authentic methods and materials. It’s stunning, from the quarry to the watermill to the ingenious vaulted ceilings in the towers. And just as astonishing is the very concept: who comes up with the idea to build a castle from scratch, and then who goes out, gets the funding and actually does it?

The craftsmen and -women must have signed up to explain their work to hordes of uninitiated visitors, because they all downed tools to answer our questions pretty cheerfully. Most of them spoke only French, with sometimes a little English – they’re masters of practical (and exquisite) crafts, after all, rather than academics – so I practised my French retour interpreting so my violin-maker husband could discuss oils with a carpenter and chisel-making with a blacksmith. (Not vocabulary I use often in my professional life!)

It’s impossible to describe in words, it’s so impressive and beautiful. You may have seen it on TV – there have been a few series following its progress and showing what life was like when castles like that were in use. I discovered it well over a decade ago, via Time Team, but never thought I’d get the chance to go there myself. Actually being there brought a genuine tear to my eye.

I’m so thrilled to have been there and I could write pages about it! I still open the book we bought from the gift shop to look at the pictures and read about the techniques. If any readers find themselves in the area, they really must visit Guédelon. In fact, just plan a visit to Guédelon on its own, and then see what else the region has to offer!

Anne Chadwick Wendrich

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